I've just come home from an utterly bonkers and magnificent meal at Parlour in Kensal Rise. I'm writing it up straight away just incase I wake up tomorrow and I can't separate it from my dreams.
For three and a half hours, my sister and I were at the mercy of Jesse Dunford Wood, the mad scientist / stand-up comic / master chef / owner of Parlour (and Notting Hill's The Mall Tavern). I should say first that to experience what we experienced, you need to somehow end up on the chef's table, which I think you might manage by booking the Party Menu for a group. I don't really know, just make it happen. It's only going to set you back around £27 per head which, considering what follows, is utterly ridiculous.
Now I'm not going to give it all away. In fact, I could just stop there and ask that you trust me. But I can't help myself...
Over the first hour or so we made our way through eight starters. Jesse began with a cryptic talk about pacing ourselves, which we all but ignored right off the bat when he presented us with moreish McTucky's Popcorn Chicken Nuggets (with actual popcorn - take that, Colonel), and Chestnut Hummus in Sherry Vinegar with Rosemary Pitta Bread which the kitchen team happened upon when crucial chickpeas were accidentally left out of the mix.
"It's good, but it's not Hummus", said a table full of Israelis on a recent visit...
Space was then made for a slab of wood topped with Backdoor Applewood Smoked Salmon and Crispy Salmon Skin with Caviar. Short of following traditional Nordic smoking instructions, Jesse just chucks it on a plank at the end for good measure. We made quick work of it with Today's Soda Bread, which is so damn good that foodie friend Felicity Spector always buys an extra loaf to take home.
It was around about this point in the meal that Jesse casually wandered past with a cutlass. He muttered something about using it to chop pancakes. Just a normal day at the office.
Next came two beautiful, colourful dishes. The first was Jesse's lazy/playful take on Goat's Cheese Ravioli which swaps fiddly pasta for raw watermelon radish and suede, served on a bed of yellow raisins and capers.
"No pasta was harmed in the making of this ravioli" - Head Chef.
This was joined by a standout signature dish that his wife apparently married him for - Duck Liver Pate with Blood Orange Marmalade served with Yesterday's Bread (a crustier version of Today's). If it's good enough for Mrs Dunford Wood, it's good enough for Matt The List.
Right, where are we? Ah yes, here's an Eggshell filled with Stilton Custard and Hazelnut Praline, served with what some might call "a marmite-less twiglet". Jesse prefers "unravelled pretzel". Another kitchen mishap led to this nutty (and stinky) creation, and thank God. It was outrageously tasty, and possibly the highlight of the meal (on the sustenance-side of things).
That's the starters covered then. There was a brief pause before a couple of main courses arrived. On the Party Menu, you share all Starters and Puds but choose your Main in advance. Some of the popular A La Carte dishes turn up here, including the self-explanatory Cow Pie and the "Remarkable" Pork Chop.
As it was Shrove Tuesday, we were treated to Duck with Beetroot Pancakes alongside a glorious bowl of Sea Trout with Romesco Peppers and Monk's Beard. After the (welcome) barrage of funky starters, these were serious plates centred around generous portions of expertly cooked meat and fish.
Now, what happened next I can only hint at. I wouldn't want to spoil the surprise, but let's just say that dessert was something special. After warming up to Richard Strauss' "Also Sprach Zarathustra", Jesse presented his 2015 Food Odyssey including Leftover Christmas Tree, Fisherman's Friend and Horlicks Arctic Rolls, Rhubarb Souffle, Giant Flaming Wagon Wheels, Naive Chocolate Salted Caramel Rolos, Chocolate Orange Battenburg, Dizzy Fresh Fruit, Kosher Black Pudding, Chestnut Macarons, a Pancake Cake and a Spoonful of Sugar!
If only he'd told us to pace ourselves.
After picking our chins up off the table, we did our best with the plethora of puddings in front of us (perhaps more manageable between seven) before tearing ourselves away to catch an Overground train back to more familiar junctions.
It was quite simply one of the best meals (certainly the most entertaining) that I have ever had. And that's without taking into consideration that it's far more affordable than most stuffy Tasting Menus that still require a trip to Chicken Cottage afterwards. What's more, the bottled beer list is great; the roasts look top notch; there's a £10 set lunch menu and an £18 dinner menu; and it's all very easy on the eyes, both in the décor and the gastronomy department.
Book Now. Dinner at Jesse's Chef's Table is an essential, unique London dining experience, but you'll also have a wonderful time if you go A La Carte, or even just pop in for a drink. Thank me later!
N.B. Parlour is closed on Mondays
P.S. If you like the look of Parlour, you should also check out The Mall Tavern
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